Day 5, A Day off in Kenmare

Rest day in Kenmare

Mileage:  4 miles around town                                             Elevation gain:  0′

Total mileage so far:  222.1 miles           Total elevation gain so far:  13,523

Noel estimates we burned between 3,000-4,000 calories yesterday so I had goat cheese bruschetta, garlic bread, pasta, a side of vegetables and apple pie for dinner last night. This morning I plowed through pancakes, toast, a protein shake, tea and orange juice while the family across from me looked on in shock and horror. An early lunch of avocado sandwich, salad and fresh juice gave way to a mid-afternoon waffle cone of Kenmare’s finest mint chocolate chip ice cream. Late day snack was a Clif bar and some ON Essential Amino Energy. And I honestly can’t wait for dinner.

A day off between rides is necessary for rest but I have to admit it’s a bit of a downer. Long rides bring a sort of cyclists’ high. They are grueling and exhausting but bloody wonderful. At the end you feel the absolute best kind of tired, but on a rest day you kinda just feel blah.

Kenmare is a cute village with a small pier and a bustling town center. Noel and I take a stroll to the stone circle which was built during the Bronze Age (2,200 – 500 B.C.). Stone circles are believed to be ritual sites, often orientated on specific solar or lunar events. Little is known about them but the Kenmare site is likely the burial place of someone who was once considered very important.

We’re tired today and a little blasé. After a few more tourist stops to see the pier and a big beautifully constructed church, we head back to our rooms to rest.

On the main thoroughfare every other door leads to a bar with live music. Foley’s, O’Donnabhain’s, Davitt’s, Crowley’s and on. Later we hop into one for dinner then check out the others for music.

The forecast for tomorrow is a 95% chance of heavy rain. My idea to ride the Ring of Kerry is scrapped because it’s a very long slog and we’ll see none of it in the weather. Noel has a better plan to head up to Moll’s Gap, down into the Black Valley (one of Ireland’s most remote areas) and on to Killarney through the Gap of Dunloe.

“Even in this crap weather you won’t be disappointed,” he promises. “It’s a short day, only 50 miles or so,” he continues as the banjo and guitar start up. “We can take off together, but if you leave without me, I’ll meet you at the top of Moll’s Gap.”

I just smile. “We’ll see.” 🙂


One thought on “Day 5, A Day off in Kenmare”

  1. Thrilled to find this blog. I’m a local Ridgefield, CT cyclist and just came back from a trip to the Emerald Isle. I was on a family trip but somehow got my wife to allow me to bring my bike. While I didn’t ride everyday I did get in a couple of hundred miles, mostly getting up early and heading to the next town to meet my wife and son. Your pictures are bringing back very fond memories. I see you missed out on the Ring of Kerry and I’m hoping you’ll get the chance to do that. I did that solo almost exactly a month ago and it was one of the best rides of my life.

    I look forward to seeing more of your adventures.


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